Welcome to Pattaya
Pattaya is the cornerstone of the Eastern Seaboard. The city’s history dates back to 1767, when General Phraya Tak gathered his armies in a small village called Thap Praya or Army of the Phraya, before chasing the Burmese from Siam’s capital Ayuttaya. He chose this place for its cooling ocean breezes Phattaya and named this place Phattaya Village. Thailand remembers him as King Taksin the Great.
From a peaceful fishing village, with tigers roaming the adjoining wilderness, Pattaya has developed into the international resort city it is today. It all began in 1959, during the war in Vietnam, when the village became the official R&R centre, and over 500 American troops from their base in Khorat descended on the village. Hotels and bars literally mushroomed overnight to accommodate more troops. When the war was over, Pattaya was given Special City Status, and plans were made for the future. Drainage and roads became subject to construction codes. Foreign companies were encouraged to establish their factories in one of the emerging industrial parks, and private businesses and tourist attractions formed their own chapters to plan development.
Today, the wastewater treatment plant has become a reality. The highway network connecting Pattaya with Bangkok and Rayong has seen major improvements. The tourism and entertainment sectors have prospered, and over 60% of Thailand’s manufacturing industries have chosen to operate from the Eastern Seaboard. Auto Alliance, BMW, Caltex, Esso, Foster Wheeler, General Motors, Michelin, Mitsubishi, Shell and Siemens-Westinghouse are just a few of the many companies located in one of the industrial complexes, i.e. Amata City, Eastern Seaboard, Laem Chabang, Maptaphut, Saha Group. The deep-sea port in Laem Chabang, 20km north of Pattaya, does not only service these manufacturing areas, it has also become a busy cruise ship terminal.
International chambers of commerce have established their chapters for members who live and work in the Eastern Seaboard. Equally, in response to a growing demand, the area offers several international schools and well-equipped hospitals.
Reputation
Pattaya has much to offer for residents and visitors, but it is also world famous for its sex industry. Go-go bars and beer bars line Beach Road and Walking Street, and other parts of town are being taken over progressively. Prostitution is part of Pattaya’s reality. If you come to live here with your family, you will either learn to tolerate this fact or simply chose to avoid the service areas. Bar girls, however, are friendly towards couples and singles and do not push their sexual wares where they are obviously not required. Efforts are being made to eliminate underage sex and to clamp down on the more outrageous sex shows.
Local Charm
Pattaya, including Jomtien to the south and Naklua to the north, has palm-fringed sandy beaches with bright umbrellas and a view of tropical coral islands on the horizon. It has a cosmopolitan atmosphere with English spoken nearly everywhere. It is full of contrasts, where five-star hotels and restaurants co-exist with temples and noodle-carts. You may enjoy the lively bargaining of the markets or prefer to do your shopping in one of the many Western-style supermarkets. You may enjoy the bright clamour of the bars and discos or prefer the more restful atmosphere in one of the hotels/restaurants. Or you may wish to visit one of the quiet places out of town. You can choose between delicious Thai food and many other cuisines. Everywhere in the city amidst the razzle-dazzle and international veneer, you will see evidence of ethnic beliefs and customs. This is part of the charm of Pattaya.
Statistics
Pattaya is the closest international resort city to Thailand’s capital Bangkok covering an area of 208 sq km. The registered population is around 100,000 people. This does not include foreign residents/expats and the many migrant workers connected with tourism. 357 hotels, 34 bungalows and 756 guesthouses offer a total of over 40,000 registered rooms. Your money is held safe in 32 banks, while you can dine in over 550 restaurants. Kick up your heels at one of the 600 night clubs, dance halls and karaoke bars, go ten pin bowling at one of the four alleys, play tennis at over 20 courts, or you can book a guided tour with one of the 78 registered tour companies. Golfers can play their game at one of the 20 prime golf courses and many driving ranges on the Eastern Seaboard.
FACTS
Thai Calendar
In 1941, Thailand officially adopted the Gregorian calendar to facilitate commerce with the rest of the world. The traditional New Year’s Day Songkran is still a celebrated holiday, and some areas still follow the Buddhist calendar. The Buddhist Era, BE, started with the passing on to Nirvana of the Buddha, 543 years before the Christian era. Many consumer-oriented businesses use both styles in their advertising, i.e. 2009 and 2552.
Geography
Thailand covers a land area of 513,115 sq km (198,000 sq miles), with a coastline of approximately 3,200 km (2,000 miles) along the Gulf of Thailand and the Andaman Sea.
Population
The official population is now just over 65 million, with an annual growth rate of .85%, one of the lowest in the south-eastern region, with Bangkok having a population of 10 million. Approximately 75% of the country is ethnic Thai, 14% are Chinese, and the remaining 11% are mostly Indian, Malay, Karen, Khmer or Mon. The literacy rate is high at about 94%, and the average life expectancy is 66 for men and 72 for women.
National Flag / Symbol
The Thai flag, originally red with a white elephant, was changed to a horizontally striped red, white and blue flag in 1917. The colours represent the three pillars of the Thai nation. Red signified the life-blood of the Thai people, white symbolizes the purity of Buddhism, the national religion, and the dominant blue stripe represents the monarchy.
The Thai national symbol is the Garuda, a mythical half-bird/half human figure (steed of the Hindu god Vishnu). This figure adorns King Bhumibol’s scepter and royal standard. Many ministries and departments have incorporated the Garuda into their insignias. The Garuda is also a sign of “Royal Appointment” and is only granted at the discretion of the King to companies who have displayed superior economic and charitable services to Thailand. This award is rarely bestowed and thus is considered a great honour.
Currency
Thai currency is the Baht (THB). One Baht is divided into 100 Satang. The paper denominations are B1000 (brown with green), B500 (purple), B100 (red), B50 (blue) and B20 (green). There is a B10 coin of white metal with a bronze centre, a metal B5 and B1, and a bronze 50 and 25 Satang.
Climate
Cool, dry season – November to February. Short sharp showers known as Mango rains. Relative humidity around 50%. Temperatures from 20-30oC. The best time to enjoy the nice weather. Recommend your prospective visitors to come in this season. If you travel north, take a sweater!
Hot season – March to May. Occasional rain with relative humidity around 73%. Temperatures from 30-40oC. The sun is very hot. During this time of year the thunderstorms are spectacular.
Rainy season – June to October. Heavy prolonged rain. Humidity around 90% with temperatures between 25-35oC. Showers are sporadic and don’t usually last all day.
Government and people
Like everywhere else in the world, expats are not eligible to vote in national or municipal elections in Thailand. Although you may not be actively involved, here is some basic information to help you understand what you will read and hear about in the news.
Thailand is a constitutional monarchy with two ‘chambers’ of government. Both the Senate and the National Assembly are elected by the people. Both chambers elect the Prime Minister who chooses a cabinet of 20 ministers. The National Assembly has 357 members belonging to about a dozen political parties (5 main ones). Members represent constituencies in the 76 provinces or changwat of Thailand. Many military officers stand for election. Each changwat has a Governor and municipal officers in its regional capital town. Smaller towns have local administration answerable to the changwat committee. Pattaya is in the Changwat of Chonburi and is administered from City Hall.
Language
The written Thai language reads horizontally from left to right, as in English. It consists of 44 consonants and 32 vowels that combine to formulate syllabic sounds. The sounds are combined with five different tone levels: high, low, common, rising and falling tones. This is the most challenging part of the Thai language as it is quite difficult to master the subtle differences to produce the correct tone. The spoken grammar is very simple. There are no Thai suffixes, genders, articles or plurals. Tenses are indicated by auxiliaries. When speaking with friends, most pronouns are simply dropped.
Learning to speak a little Thai is a fun challenge. Thai people appreciate it and reward you with a wide smile when a foreigner tries to say something in their language. It is also very helpful if you plan to travel within Thailand. If you learn with a Thai teacher, you will be able to ask all those questions about the Thais and their customs. A pocket size Thai translation book can help you get started.
THAI HISTORY
The region today known as Thailand has been occupied since prehistoric times by various groups of people. Recent excavations in the northeast have disclosed that bronze had been used 5,000 years ago. Neolithic sites in the northwest indicate the farming of crops dating from about 10,000 BC. The first traders came across the sea from India bringing the Brahman and Buddhist religions during the 1st and 2nd centuries. The Mon, followed by the Khmer, dominated the region for many centuries. The first known record of Thai people is from the 11thcentury; a Cham inscription refers to Syam prisoners of war. A century later, they are seen depicted with Khmer warriors on the bas-reliefs of Angkor Wat. However, it is evident that Thais had been migrating south from their original home in southern China for some time before this period, settling in the far North, the Chao Phraya valley, Sukhothai and surrounding areas. By the 13th century, Thai people out-numbered their Khmer overlords.
SUKOTHAI
Golden Era 1238-1378. After the death of the Khmer King Jayavarman VII, a Thai chieftain brought together several groups of Thais and, as King Intradhit, founded the Kingdom of Sukhothai, ‘Dawn of Happiness’. Thai means ‘free’, and that is just how they intended to remain forever. The teachings of Theravada Buddhism contributed to the formation of a Thai identity. From around 1298 to 1368, some of the finest examples of Buddha images and ceramic wares were created. The Walking Buddha, representing his missionary role and the beautiful simplicity of line is typical of the Sukhothai style and has become a classic in Thai art. You can see a modern example of this north of Pattaya on Highway 3, at the entrance gate to Wat Djittabhawan. The Golden Era lasted only 140 years; Sukhothai lost its independence in 1378 and became a vassal of Ayutthaya in 1438. Many Thai traditions date from this time, especially the respect and affection of the Thai people for their King and his family.
LANNA THAI
While Sukhothai was gaining independence from the Khmer, other city states further north were beginning to gain power. During the last half of the 13th century, Prince Mengrai ascended to the throne of Chiang Saen. He chose Chiang Rai as his capital and began a conquest that united most of the north. He later moved to Chiang Mai, which became the political and cultural centre of Lanna Thai. Lanna Thai sculptors worked mainly with bronze; wood and stone were also used for carving. The Emerald Buddha in Bangkok’s Wat Phra Keo is said to be from this period. These artisans have handed down their skills and knowledge through the generations, and many of Thailand’s unique crafts still come from the northern region.
AYUTTAYA
The Glorious Age 1350-1767. After the death of King Ramkhamhaeng and Sukhothai’s decline, King U-Thong emerged in the middle of the 14thcentury and established the capital of Ayutthaya, the second great capital city of the Thai. Foreign merchants from the East and West flocked there to trade and called it the ‘Venice of the East’ because of its numerous canals or klongs. Three factors contributed to its power and wealth; flourishing trade, military power and a sound bureaucracy. Laws were set up relating to royal status, land tenure, crime and punishment. A well-structured military administration and civil service laid the foundations for systems still in operation today. The Kingdom of Siam had a population of around a million and was ruled by 33 different kings over four centuries. They adopted Brahman ceremonies and customs that had been practiced in the Sukhothai era, such as the coronation and the ploughing ceremony, which still exist today. The Khmer philosophy of divine kingship was adopted. Royal palaces blossomed from simple wooden structures into elaborate edifices. Court etiquette was adopted, including a Royal language. The reigning king would remain secluded and take on god-like status, ruling through his officials.
In 1538, a border incursion set off a series of wars with Burma. In 1569, Ayutthaya fell for the first time and became a Burmese vassal for fifteen years. Prince Naresuan, who was taken to Burma as a hostage at the age of nine, returned at sixteen to amass his forces and proclaim Thai independence in 1584. Prince Naresuan was crowned King in 1590 and helped lead Siam into a long period of peace and prosperity.
During this period, gilded lacquer ware had a great influence on the Thai artisans. Imports of Chinese blue and white porcelain flooded into Thailand, and in the 15thcentury, potters in Ayutthaya began making the famous Benjarong porcelain. Another important art form during this period was the painting of temple murals.
The first European traders came in 1512. They were Portuguese and followed by the English, Dutch and French. Envoys came from the court of Louis XIV in 1685 as well as missionaries with vain hopes of converting the Siamese King Narai. King Narai was the protector of all religions in his kingdom, a belief that is still seen as a royal duty today. King Narai was impressed with the foreigners, but senior Thai officials felt there were too many for comfort in high places in court, which led to a revolution and a return to more traditional ways with a new dynasty. Ayuttaya’s political decline began in 1688, when King Narai fell ill. Following his death, all trade with Europe ceased. The Burmese invaded Siam on several occasions and in 1767, after a battle that lasted nearly 15 months, succeeded in capturing the capital. They burned everything and reduced the great city to rubble. It was a terrible end to a glorious era that had lasted for more than 400 years.
THONBURI
The Incredible Revival 1767-1782. A hero emerged to win back the kingdom and make the indomitable Thais a major power in South East Asia again. A charismatic and talented military leader named Phraya Tak, brought together several of the surviving groups and established yet another new capital in Thonburi. In just fifteen months, he successfully expelled the Burmese and reclaimed all the territory of the former Kingdom of Ayuttaya and more. He later became King Taksin; his palace was situated where the Temple of Dawn stands today in Bangkok. In 1782, however, political turmoil led to his downfall, and the crown was offered to his leading general Chao Phraya Chakri. There is a statue of King Taksin in front of City Hall in Pattaya.
BANGKOK
Early Ratanakosin Era. Chao Phraya Chakri became known as Rama I, founder of the present dynasty. April 6th, his coronation day, is still celebrated as a public holiday called Chakra Day. For strategic reasons, Rama I moved the capital of Siam across the river to Bangkok or ‘Krung Thep’, meaning ‘City of Angels’. He modeled it on Ayuttaya; bricks from the ruined city were brought down the river. Temples and monuments were erected, using names from those glorious times. The wonderful Grand Palace with the temple of the Emerald Buddha was constructed. The palace is formally known as Wat Phra Sriratana Sasadaram but commonly referred to as Wat Phra Keo. The first Chakri King also rebuilt Wat Po and Wat Suthat. He initiated many government reforms, returned the monarchy to the Buddhist ideas of Sukhothai and kept the Burmese at bay.
Rama II continued his father’s efforts and started the work on Wat Arun, the beautiful temple built with porcelain. He was a gifted artist whose talents included wood-carving and mother-of-pearl inlay. Rama III resumed trade with Europe and thus prompted many foreigners to take up residence in Bangkok. He was also an enthusiastic builder, redesigning the inner palace and constructing nine new temples in the capital and repairing over 60 existing temples. The early Ratanakosin era was a period of renaissance of Thai arts reflective of the peace and prosperity of Siam at the time.
Late Ratanakosin Era. In 1851, by the end of the third reign, western influences were already visible in Bangkok, and it seemed only a matter of time before the Kingdom of Siam would fall to colonial rule. It was during this time that King Mongkut, Rama IV, emerged as a strong and wise leader. He signed a Treaty of Commerce and Friendship with Britain and encouraged the study of foreign language, especially among the royal family. He even hired an English woman named Anna Leonowens, whose fanciful memoirs were the basis of the famous movie ‘The King and I’. Rama IV employed foreigners to assist in reorganizing the army and government. He had been a Buddhist monk for 27 years and was fluent in 10 languages, including Latin and English. This enabled him to study western sciences including astronomy, in which he was especially gifted. He also corresponded in English with world leaders such as Queen Victoria and President Lincoln. He could conduct delicate diplomatic relations without interpreters. This was a great asset at a time when the neighbouring countries were being colonized by European powers. Rama IV may be described as the architect of acceptance of Thailand by the western powers.
King Chulalongkorn, Rama V, succeeded his father in 1868 and reigned for 42 years. He was a much beloved monarch, still thought of today as one of the greatest kings. You will see portraits of Chulalongkorn on gold medallions, worn to keep his memory alive, and statues or pictures on the walls in homes and shops. The date of his death, October 23rd, is a public holiday. King Chulalongkorn brought great changes and rapid progress, launching the nation into the twentieth century. Rama V introduced widespread reforms during his reign. He abolished slavery, constructed railways, reorganized the entire governmental structure, and established a post and telegraph service. He subscribed to his father’s belief in accessible monarchy and traveled throughout the Kingdom to oversee the condition of his people. Rama V was a skillful diplomat. In difficult times, when the powerful French and British in their colonies of Burma, Laos and Malaya were looming over his borders, he succeeded in keeping the heart of the Kingdom intact and autonomous by ceding vassal border states to them. Like his father, he was determined that Siam would always remain a free country. Rama V admired European fashions and built country palaces along the lines of Hampton Court and Fontainebleau. Vimanmek Mansion was built from golden teakwood on Koh Si Chang, the island opposite Sri Racha. When a French invasion was feared, it was dismantled and moved to the grounds of the Dusit Palace in Bangkok. You can still see the garden terraces and a few scant remains on the island. Rama V was the first Thai King to travel abroad, visiting Asian countries in his youth and Europe on his steam yacht, when he was in his forties. He educated his sons in English schools and colleges in France, Germany and Russia. Hundreds of Thai students followed in their wake and returned to their country with new skills and perspectives.
King Vajiravudh, Rama VI, introduced compulsory education in Siam. His reign lasted only 15 years, from 1910 to 1925. His brother Prajadhipok ruled as Rama VII from 1925 to 1935. During this time, a group of Thai students, who were living in Paris, became enamoured of the theory of democracy and returned to stage a peaceful coup in 1932, overthrowing the absolute monarchy and setting up a new form of government headed by an army general. The deposed King agreed to return and reign as a constitutional monarch. In 1935 he abdicated and his young nephew, Ananda Mahidol, succeeded him as Rama VIII. In 1939, it was decided to call the country Thailand, meaning ‘Land of the Free’. King Mahidol was assassinated under mysterious circumstances in 1946.
During the First World War, Siam had sided with the Allies. The Second World War, however, was nearly three years of Japanese occupation of Thailand. Without warning, they landed overnight along the coast of the Gulf of Thailand. An underground resistance was set up and operated throughout the occupation in support of the Allies. This was a complex period of Thai history, during which thousands of Thais perished alongside Allied prisoners while building the Death Railway on the River Kwai. When it was all over, it was a difficult time getting the nation back on an even keel and hanging on to its precious independence.
THE MONARCHY
It is obvious that the monarchy is still a strong unifying force for the nation. Although the King’s power is regulated by the constitution, he is the Head of State and greatly loved and respected by his people. Everywhere in Thailand, in shops, homes, petrol stations and restaurants, you will see pictures of the King and other members of the Royal Family.
THE ROYAL FAMILY
Rama IX, King Bhumibol Adulyadej, was born on December 5, 1927, in Massachusetts, USA, where his father was studying medicine at Harvard University. He succeeded his elder brother as King on June 8, 1946. On April 28, 1950, King Bhumibol was married to Mom Rajawongse Sirikit Kitiya-kara, a great-granddaughter of King Chulalongkorn. The following week, on May 5, 1950, they were crowned King and Queen in a dazzling ceremony at the Grand Palace. He is much revered by the Thai nation and is currently the world’s longest reigning monarch.
The King and Queen have four children; Princess Ubol Ratana, born April 5, 1951; Crown Prince Vajiralongkorn born July 28, 1952; Crown Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn born April 2, 1955 and Princess Chulabhorn born July 4, 1957.
Rama IX is very much a working monarch, and his dedication to his people is most impressive. He is a gifted photographer, painter, jazz saxophonist, composer and yachting enthusiast.
Queen Sirikit and the Royal children are also very active in public services and constantly in the news. You will hear and read about their involvement in conservation and the protection of the environment. They give aid from the Royal purse to disaster victims, and they initiate many projects all over the country.
There are several Queen’s Projects in the Pattaya area. At Phu Luang, on Route 3376, you can buy handicrafts, quilts, fruit and vegetables. These are produced in the north of Thailand at crop substitution centres, set up to provide alternatives to opium poppy farming. There is also a Career Apprenticeship Centre about 12km north of Pattaya on Sukhumvit Road.
Wat Yansangwararam, a major wat under Royal patronage, is regarded as the Wat of the Reign. You will find it in the hills about 15 km south of Pattaya, off Highway 3 (see Leisure Activities).
The Thai people deeply honour and respect their royalty. Do not criticize the Royal Family or show a lack of respect for their monarch. It is illegal to insult royalty and an arrestable offence.
THAI RELIGION
Over 92% of the Thai population are practicing Theravada Buddhists. The teachings of Buddha are compatible with most other religions. Buddhism is the very heart of Thai culture; it gives life to all the traditions, social systems, art and literature of the nation.
On a hill overlooking Pattaya bay, you will see a huge golden statue of the Buddha, set up as a reminder of his teachings. You will pass shrines with four-faced Brahma statues, trees with coloured ribbons and fortune tellers and vendors of good luck charms. These practices are vestiges of Brahmanism, the early form of Hinduism, and Animism, a folk religion with belief in spirits. These elements have been absorbed in varying degrees into Buddhism in Thailand.
Life of the Buddha
The Hindu Prince Siddhartha Gautama was born in Nepal in the 6th Century BC. He became an ascetic, seeking to discover why man must suffer, die and be reborn again and again, as Hindus believe in reincarnation. After 6 years, he reached enlightenment, the highest point in spirituality, and became the Buddha destined for Nirvana. But he chose to stay and teach his doctrine, stressing to his followers that he was a teacher and not a god. He finally passed to Nirvana at the age of 80 in 543 BC.
Teaching of the Buddha
The Buddha believed that an individual could attain enlightenment by following his teachings. The basic teaching of the Buddha centres around the Four Noble Truths.
· The Truth of Suffering. Existence is suffering.
· The Truth of the Cause of Suffering. Suffering is caused by desire.
· The Truth of the Cessation of Suffering. Eliminate the cause of suffering (desire), and suffering will cease to arise.
· The Truth of the Path. This eightfold path is the way to eliminate suffering.
The Eightfold Path will put an end to suffering. This code of behaviour covers morality and development of wisdom, concentration and meditation. Basically, Buddhism teaches that we suffer because we are never content, always wanting more out of life. Buddhism believes in avoiding extremes by teaching that the Middle Way is the right one to pursue. The Eightfold Path is as follows:
· Right Understanding
· Right Thought
· Right Speech
· Right Bodily Contact
· Right Livelihood
· Right Effort
· Right Attentiveness
· Right Concentration
The Triple Gem is respect for the Buddha and his Teachings. You will see that Thais bow their heads to the ground three times in reverence in a wat (temple) and offer incense sticks, candles and lotus blossoms in bundles of three. They take refuge in the Triple Gem, the Buddha, the Dhamma (his teachings), and the Sangha (the community of monks).
The Concept of Karma is based on the teaching that a simple life is also the best life. As Buddhists, the Thais believe in reincarnation and that doing good in this life will result in an even better life thereafter. Showing respect, following the teachings of Buddha, giving to the poor and making offerings to monks are all ways to make merit, tham boon. Becoming a monk or a nun is the ultimate way to make merit. You can also transfer merit to someone else. Thai Buddhists make merit by visiting the temple on special holy days, their birthday or any important anniversary, as there is no special day for attendance at the temples.
Wats
Buddhist temples are symbols of the Buddhist religion. They are magnificently built and skillfully decorated. Hindu gods may not have a place in Buddhist philosophy, but you will see them in temple murals depicting stories about the Buddha and in ornamental motifs on temples. The wat is also the centre of the community. This is especially true in rural districts, as the school is often located on the temple premises. Meetings of the community may also be held at the local wat, and the highly respected abbot has a powerful influence on social behaviour.
You are welcome to visit, but show proper respect in conduct and dress. Women should wear a long skirt, closed shoes or sandals with a back strap and have their shoulders covered. Men should wear long pants and preferably long sleeves. Before you enter the bot (main chapel) of the temple remove your shoes. It is usual to sit or kneel on the floor in front of the altar area, with your feet pointing backwards. This area has many Buddha statues on and around it. The Buddha reached enlightenment in meditation under a bo tree, so it is considered sacred, and you will usually find one planted somewhere in the temple compound. It has a broad spread and distinctive teardrop shaped leaves, and the trunk is often swathed with coloured sashes.
Monks live in small houses or kutis in the wat compound. Their only possessions are their saffron robes, sandals, food bowl, bag, an oval fan and umbrella. If you are up at dawn, you will see monks everywhere, going through the streets on foot with their metal bowls to receive food from anyone who wishes to make merit. You will notice that a woman may not pass anything directly into a monk’s hand. A monk must never touch a woman, so do give them plenty of space if you walk past them. On public transport, certain seats are kept for monks. On a baht bus, they usually sit in front with the driver.
Food offerings are placed directly into the bowl. Other items should be put down, usually on a cloth, for the monk to pick up. Monks must finish their meal by noon and fast until the next morning but are still allowed to drink liquids. This is in line with the Buddha’s teaching, to follow the Middle Way of restraint but not total austerity. Monks may receive incense sticks, candles, flowers and even cigarettes. They spend much time meditating, chanting and instructing short-term monks in the 227 rules of the Sangha.
Most young men over the age of 20 enter the monkhood for a short period, often at the beginning of Buddhist Lent in July. It is viewed like a religious retreat. Many companies will allow time off work for this. Once in the monkhood, they are free to leave at any time or return again. About a quarter of the monks in Thailand stay for life. Young boys dressed in monk’s robes are novice monks. They often come from poor families and receive an education in the wat. Two ceremonies take place before ordination, usually in the candidate’s home or in the sala (meeting pavilion) of the wat; Sawat Mon is performed by monks from the novice’s temple and Sukhwan Naak by a Brahman priest. This is an example of the intermingling of Buddhist and Brahman practices.
Brahman Elements / Cultural Practices
The early monarchs of Thailand found that there were no Buddhist ceremonies for coronations, weddings, funerals and other major events. To remedy this, they followed the old Brahman practices to suit the occasion. Buddhist blessing rituals by monks often precede Brahman ceremonies. There is no conflict; Brahmanism, especially in the art of astrology, is taken very seriously by everyone from royalty and politicians to fishermen and rice farmers. Brahman astrologers calculate which day would be the most auspicious to get married, start a business, lay a foundation stone, build a property or move a house. Once the day has been chosen, Buddhist monks are invited to perform the blessing ceremony. Even multinational companies in the Eastern Seaboard follow these procedures.
On the morning of the appointed day, nine monks circle a thread around the whole area to be blessed and then carry out the ceremony from a raised platform. There is lots of chanting, and sprinkling special water on the participants completes the ceremony. Then follows a feast for the monks, which confers merit on the host. After the monks have finished eating, the rest of the guests may eat. If you are invited you should dress modestly and take along an envelope with some money as a gift.
You will see signs of other monks’ ceremonies in everyday life. Images such as triangular calligraphic marks above the door of your house or inside the car above the windscreen. This brings blessings and keeps bad luck away. Many truck drivers decorate their vehicles with shiny aluminium cutouts of Devas and Suriya, the sun-god, with his chariot and horses. This is to protect them in the fearsome traffic.
Every Thai building or house has a spirit house on the premises. The tiny house must be inviting to the spirits, so it is very important to choose the right location. Without a place to live for the spirits phra phum of the site, they may move into your house and cause all sorts of trouble. Spirit houses are usually decorated with garlands, little Buddha statues, elephants and other items. Food, water, flowers and incense sticks are offered daily, so the spirits will not make trouble, and the Lord of the Land will bring good luck and prosperity to those concerned. The ceremony of putting up a spirit house is conducted by a Brahman priest and is followed by a blessing. Trees swathed with coloured sashes are also considered to have spirits residing there.
Garlands with sweet smelling jasmine are hung in vehicles as offering to the spirits, and Thais are especially gifted in making floral decorations for religious occasions using little buds in symmetrical designs.
Ancient bronze casting techniques are still practised today. About 40 km north of Pattaya, in Ang Sila, you can witness and participate in the ritualistic ceremony of Buddha casting. The sonorous gong rings out, monks chant, and the white hot metal is poured into the clay moulds, that have been prepared using the lost wax technique. See Places of Interest.
Hindu Gods
Brahma, the Creator, is one Hindu god whose statue with four faces you will see everywhere. His shrine is tended carefully with fresh flowers daily to bring good luck. Thai classical dance performances usually show scenes from the Ramakien, the Thai version of the Hindu epic the Ramayana. The hero, Rama, carries a huntsman’s bow. With the help of the white monkey, Hanuman, he overcomes the forces of evil to win back his bride who had been taken away. Rama was an avatar of the Hindu god Vishnu, the Preserver. Rama is also the name chosen by the present Chakri dynasty for their kings. Traditionally, Vishnu’s mount is a garuda, eagle-man. You will see this used as a royal cipher on certain banks and businesses enjoying royal patronage. The last of the main trinity of Hindu gods is Shiva, the Destroyer, represented as a phallic symbol or lingam. You will also see amulet vendors selling phallic lucky charms.
Thai Courtesy
The Buddhist belief in earthly impermanence has made the Thais a fun (sanuk) loving people who appear to be unruffled by any event. They tend to rise above the problems of life with a ‘mai pen rai’ or ‘never mind’ attitude. They accept frustrating situations with the greatest of ease and never seem to be in too much of a hurry for anything. They also avoid extremes, and this is especially true when it comes to showing emotion. The strong Western influence has made the Thais in Pattaya much more tolerant of foreign ways. In most instances, they assume that if we are doing something inappropriate it is simply because we do not know any better. The Thais in Pattaya are more relaxed than their country cousins. Nevertheless, if a foreigner makes the effort to respect Thai customs, the Thais will appreciate you the more for it. Be aware of what you are wearing, your general manner and avoid very affectionate gestures with others in public. Here are some courtesy tips:
- Never be disrespectful to the Monarchy or Royal Family in any way at any time.
- Show proper respect for Buddha statues by not touching them, climbing on them for photos or pointing your feet in their direction when seated.
- Act with decorum in a temple and dress appropriately. A woman should give space to a monk, so as to make sure there is no body contact. See above, under Wats.
- Do not touch anyone’s head. Inferiors will generally try to keep their heads lower than those of higher status even crouching down if necessary.
- Do not ever use your foot to point at somebody or something, nor put your feet on a table. The foot is considered the lowest part of the body, both literally and figuratively, and it is very insulting.
- Remove your shoes before entering a house. Some shops also require leaving shoes at the door.
- Elders are given higher status than juniors; do not be offended if they ask you how old you are or even how much you earn. It is just showing interest and not considered impolite. Evasive answers are acceptable.
- Thais will ask “pai nai” (where are you going) when they see you leave. It is a sort of salutation probably derived from ancient times when it was a great event to see a traveller come through a remote village. You may give a truthful answer or just say “pai tiaw” (I am going out).
Greetings
The Thai greeting wai is also used as a gesture of thanks and should first be given by a younger or lower-ranking person. The hands are placed palms together as in prayer, and the head makes a bow. The deeper the bow and higher the hands, the greater the respect shown. A wai should always be returned, although a smile and a nod will do, if you are a foreigner. The word of greeting or farewell is ’sawatdee-ka’ for a woman and ’sawatdee-krab’ for a man. Many educated Thais will thrust out a hand to a Westerner to give a firm handshake. It may happen that somebody calls out “you!” to get your attention, this is the translation of the polite Thai khun and not meant to be rude.
Smile
The Thai smile is world famous and is one of the best things about life here. Sadly there are some shop assistants in Pattaya, who have been jaded by rude foreigners and will simply gaze at you with a blank look. Do not be put off – keep smiling! Do it the Thai way for a friendly and positive start.
Not all smiles are happy ones as the Thais also smile or giggle when under emotional stress, or when they are upset. A smile can also be used as an apology. Despite his rueful grin, that baht bus driver can be truly sorry he backed into your car. Resist the temptation to punch him and return the smile while waiting for the police to arrive.
Loss of Face
It is very bad manners to lose your temper or raise your voice, and no Thai will respect you for it. You gain nothing by becoming more assertive and getting angry. In fact, you will find that it is counter-productive. You will be considered to have lost face, and most Thais will stop interacting with you by either ignoring you or walking away. For a Thai it is an awful disgrace. Try to avoid head-on confrontations. In any dispute make sure there is a compromise solution available, a bridge for your opponent to retreat across without losing face. You will get better results this way and avoid humiliating a Thai, which in an extreme case could lead to vindictiveness.
If a problem arises with a Thai employee, try to solve it the Thai way by asking his friend to mention the problem to the employee. The person in question will not have to lose face and can rectify the situation without confrontation. If a face-to-face confrontation is needed, stay calm and explain the problem in a polite and productive manner.
Gifts
A birthday is a special occasion for a celebration, and a present is always appreciated. Do get it gift wrapped with ribbons and bows, as appearances are important here. It is a Thai custom to leave the present unopened in case any spontaneous reaction is inappropriate.
Money is usually given for weddings, house blessings, ordination parties, etc. The amount should reflect the giver’s status, which Westerners sometimes find hard to judge. If unsure, ask a Thai what would be appropriate. Place the money in an envelope with your name on the front.
Thai Style
In this section we take a look at traditional Thai arts and crafts and traditional Thai sports. By increasing your awareness of Thai culture and handicrafts we hope to bring another dimension to your perception and understanding of the distinctive quality of Thai style. You may also get some ideas for your shopping and feel inspired to give your home an ethnic touch!
The Thai style has been influenced through the centuries by the skill of artists from Cambodia, China, Burma, India, Laos and Malaysia. Elegant craftsmanship reached a peak in the Ayutthaya period, and most of Thailand’s traditional crafts continue to be produced today in various parts of the country. Her Majesty the Queen has set up Support Centres where training is provided. These centres promote Thai handicraft traditions and enable farming families to develop marketable skills to earn supplementary income.
Distinctive Architecture
Jim Thompson, the American who is famous for developing the Thai silk industry in the 1950’s, can also take credit for a revival of interest in the traditional Thai house. He built a beautiful Thai house on a klong in Bangkok that was actually composed of six old houses which, following the age-old custom, could be dismantled and transported. The whole dwelling is open and airy, well suited to Jim Thompson’s contemporary style furnishings while preserving the basic Thai flavour with carved doors, panelled walls and gables with gingerbread fretwork decoration. There is an outstanding and little known example of an ancient traditional wooden house, just a short drive to the east of Rayong, off Highway 3, at the turn for Ban Phe. Known simply as the Thai House and set in a botanical garden, it also used to be several buildings that were transported from Ayutthaya by the Sawet Sobha Foundation. When you go for a drive away from modern developments you will notice many traditional plain wooden houses on stilts. These have been the typical dwellings of the Thai people in this area for centuries.
In contrast to the simple wooden houses, Buddhist temples reveal Thai architectural style at its most ornate. Most wats glimmer with dazzling mirrored glass mosaic decoration, brightly painted stucco encrusted with baroque fantasies and gleaming lacquer patterned with gold. You will see many temples on the Eastern Seaboard, some with new additions and ordination halls under construction; they are funded by local people ‘making merit’.
Furniture
Furniture is a relatively new feature in Thai homes. Chairs have only been around for about a hundred years. A low table that also served as a seat or a bed used to be the main piece of furniture in a house. There would also be a cabinet with tapering sides for storing clothes or valuables. Thai wooden furniture today ranges from elaborately carved varnished teak with a profusion of floral motifs, elephants and birds, to cabinets in polished or lacquered wood with mother-of-pearl inlay, to the simple lines of contemporary rosewood dining suites and ingenious fold-away cocktail cabinets. Traditionally, teak was favoured for construction and for making furniture. Today, environmental awareness and logging bans have elevated prices and often rubber tree wood, which looks similar to beech, is an economical alternative for utilitarian products. You can find everything from expensive Chinese antiques to inexpensive rattan. It is also possible to have furniture custom made.
Antiques
The antique shops of Bangkok, Chiang Mai and Pattaya are treasure troves of ancient wooden carvings, porcelain and pottery, musical instruments, lacquer ware, stone and wooden statues, pictures and a wide range of items used in daily life long ago. You can also see interesting collections in many museums around the country. It can be very difficult to identify the genuine from skilful copies. Old materials and ageing techniques are used to fool all but the real expert. Some shops carry both the genuine antique and reproductions.
Ceramics
This is a fascinating subject. There is a wide variety of ceramic-ware available, including reproductions of ancient pieces. Copies of items from the Ban Chiang period, with swirling red on buff designs are found at extremely good prices at Ban Chiang itself, near Udon Thani. Stoneware pots can be bought at Dan Kwian village south of Korat/Nakhon Ratchasima.
Celadon pottery, which originated in China, was produced in Thailand during the Sukhothai era more than 700 years ago. Since the 1950’s, the art has been revived in the Chiang Mai area. Celadon has a wood-ash glaze, is fired at very high temperatures, and the traditional colours are green and brown. Today, a dark blue colour has been added to the range. Unglazed blue and white pottery was produced in the Ayutthaya period, and today factories around Bangkok continue the art, making glazed items such as vases, pots and table sets. These are inexpensive and available at department stores and gift shops everywhere.
In the late Ayutthaya period, fine porcelain with multicoloured enamel decoration was produced in China to Thai specifications for the exclusive use of the Royal Family. It is called Benjarong, which means ‘five colours’. This type of porcelain is time consuming to produce as each colour is fired separately. Early pieces can be seen in museum collections and on sale in antique shops. There is also a variation with gold decoration called Lai Nam Thong. New pieces of this fine porcelain are available at quality gift shops.
Textiles
Thailand is famous for its silk and cotton textiles. You will find gorgeous hand-woven silks in glorious colours in many shops in the area. They are in various weights and can bring a touch of luxury to your home or be used for elegant dress-making by the numerous tailor shops. Mudmee, also known as ikat, is a distinctively Thai style of weaving. You will find both silk and cotton examples of this, usually made up into garments, and the traditional cotton indigo blue is a great favourite. The geometric design is achieved by dyeing the weft threads to a pre-determined pattern. The art of weaving is traditionally practised in the Northeast.
Kalagas, Burmese wall hangings, are usually made of velvet with highly decorative appliqués using beading and sequins. They portray heroes and their exploits. They are now widely available and mass-produced for the tourist market. There are many Burmese crafts for sale in Thailand as there is a larger market here, and the items can be sold without restrictions.
Gems / Precious Metals
The local gem cutting industry in Chantaburi keeps up the tradition with imported uncut gemstones. On weekends, you can watch dealers along the street working through piles of gleaming stones. You can get real value for money, both with unset stones and mounted pieces. If you are not an expert and wish to buy gems, go to a place recommended by a friend who has been here for some time.
The favourite gold for Thais is 24 carat. They give the gold value of a piece of jewelry in baht weight (1 baht = 15.2 g of gold) and often buy it as an investment. There are gold shops everywhere doing lively trade, also as money lenders in exchange for jewelry. The gold has a deep yellow colour and is very soft. Jewelers who cater to Westerners deal also in 14 or 18 carat gold and custom make any design.
In the Northeast and in shops around Pattaya, you will find some lovely hand made or industrially made silver items. There are belts, little betel nut boxes with beaten designs of flowers and dragons and Cambodian silver ornaments shaped like stylized animals. Hilltribe jewelry usually has a much lower percentage of silver but is most attractive and looks great worn with their bright ethnic embroideries.
Attractive bronze ornaments can be found in good quality gift shops, and modern bronze cutlery is another popular purchase.
Nielloware originated in Europe, but the art has been practised in Thailand since Sukhothai times. The intricate designs are first engraved or drawn onto a silver object. the background is beaten down and then filled with Niello, an amalgam of lead, copper, silver and sulphur. After heating to fuse the metals, the surface is sanded and polished.
Other Crafts
Lacquer work is a craft with Chinese origins. The glossy black finish comes from the sap of a tree. This sap is applied to wooden or bamboo items in several layers with gold-leaf decoration, mother-of-pearl inlay and patterns using broken eggshell. There are workshops in Chiang Mai. New items are on sale in gift shops and street stalls and older ones, including panelled doors and chests, are on display in many museums. The brick-red colour of Burmese lacquer work comes from cochineal beetles.
Painted varnished paper umbrellas are manufactured in the Chiang Mai area. You can watch them being made there and buy them at tourist centres everywhere. The pulp for the paper comes from the sa tree.
Papier maché is used for a variety of useful and decorative items, such as trays, bowls, plates and ornaments. It is also the material used to make khon masks, the traditional helmet type of head dress worn in Thai Classical Dance.
Nang yai (shadow puppets) are cut from buffalo hide to provide a traditional form of entertainment. Performances in Thailand are now very rare, but you can see puppets in handicraft shops and find copies of their designs framed as pictures for sale.
Basket weaving is a handicraft which is still very much in everyday use here. Fishermen use many types of basket-traps both to catch fish and to carry them home. Rice farmers use various storage baskets and winnowing trays. Housewives have a wide range of baskets for steamers, sticky-rice receptacles, containers of all sorts, lampshades and trays. These everyday objects make beautiful ornaments. They are made from reeds, coconut palms, water hyacinth and other vegetation. You will find them for sale everywhere. Phanat Nikhom, a delightful little town about 50 km north of Pattaya, specializes in weaving baskets. There are two shops in Nong Mong market on Highway 3, about 40 km north of Pattaya. Yan lipao baskets are made from a vine of the rain forest with very intricate craftsmanship and often used as elegant handbags. You will find them for sale in the southern provinces and here in more expensive hotel shops.
Making artificial flowers, sometimes of silk, is yet another Thai craft. Dried flower arrangements are sold at some Royal Project outlets.
Traditional Thai Sports
The rattan ball game takraw is a typical Thai sport. The ball is made from woven rattan strips. Traditionally, the players are arranged in a circle and take turns trying to keep the ball in the air or to kick it into a hanging basket. Nowadays, two teams play over a net. They may use their feet, knees, chests, but not hands or forearms.
Kite flying is also a popular sport. Competitions are held from March to April with the arrival of the south-western winds, lom wow, the kite wind. A star-shaped male kite hula and a diamond-shaped female kite pak pao each try to roll up the strings of the opponent and bring it to their respective zone, marked by white lines.
Thai boxing muaythai is a form of self-defence developed during the Ayutthaya period. Contestants may use their bare feet, legs, knees, elbows, shoulders and fists to punch each other and bring their opponent to the floor. In former times, their fists were sometimes wrapped in hemp containing ground glass.
Thai Celebrations
In Thailand, holidays are either determined by the lunar calendar, which cannot provide exact dates, or they are celebrated in honour of the monarchy. On national public holidays businesses, government offices and banks close. If a holiday falls on a Saturday or Sunday, banks will substitute Monday for the holiday. Large firms sometimes vary the actual date of their closures. Provided the workers receive the statutory number of days off, this is acceptable. Individual shopkeepers close occasionally for their own convenience. During the Chinese New Year period, the shops of Chinese families close, and Hindus and Muslims may close for their holy days. Because of the high proportion of foreigners in Pattaya, important national days for countries other than Thailand are celebrated in the churches and hotels. You will find Easter eggs and turkey with trimmings as well as Christmas cards and Valentine’s day gifts. On public holidays and long weekends, roads and hotels are very crowded in favourite holiday spots like Chiang Mai, Phuket and Pattaya. Book your room well in advance, if you wish to visit other areas of Thailand. Here is a calendar of Thai celebrations and public holidays:
New Year’s Day
January 1. Hotels in Pattaya offer New Year activities and entertainment.
Chinese New Year
First day of First Chinese Lunar Month. Usually in February. The Chinese form one of the largest ethnic groups in Thailand. Most families have been here for generations. They are an integral part of the community but keep their own traditions. Businesses close for three or four days, giving families a chance to get together and perhaps worship at one of the Chinese Buddhist temples. Hotels lay on special Chinese buffets with entertainment, acrobats, Lion Dances and the obligatory fireworks. You will find the Lion Dance also performed in some areas along Beach Road.
Makha Bucha Day
Full Moon, Third Lunar Month. Usually in February/March. This commemorates the day when 1,250 of Buddha’s disciples gathered spontaneously to hear him preach. Buddhists visit the wats and make merit by such acts as releasing caged birds. In the evening, the ceremonies culminate in a candlelight procession wianthian around the main temple building. If you are modestly dressed and willing to enter into the true spirit of the proceedings, you will be made welcome.
Chakri Memorial Day
April 6. A day to commemorate the founding of the Chakri Dynasty. King Bhumibol is currently the ninth Chakri King. Devout Buddhists visit the wats, and the portraits of the Royal Family are covered with tributes of wreaths and flowers.
Songkran
April 13 – 15. This is the celebration of the traditional Thai New Year, a religious festival in the Buddhist calendar. Buddhists visit the wats for the ceremony of rod nam dam hua. Water is sprinkled on Buddha images, offerings are made and confidence expressed that the rainy season will bring enough supply of water to cover the dry season. Houses are given a good clean, and the younger members of the family respectfully bathe the hands of their seniors with scented water.
This once quiet religious holiday has now become a crazy water festival. Songkran carnival floats parade along Pattaya Second Road and Beach Road, people in cars and trucks or on motorcycles cruise the streets armed with cups, buckets, water pistols and even fire hoses. If you want to participate, prepare to get soaked and expect some icy cold water. To add to the fun, talc or chalk mixed with water may be daubed on your face. As the Songkran Festival extends over at least three days, many are tempted to go off somewhere for a break. However, in Thailand you will get soaked everywhere.
National Labour Day
May 1. This holiday follows the lead of Western countries. So far, the people of Pattaya have not introduced any particular activities related to this day. The main parades and celebrations take place at Sanam Luang in Bangkok.
Coronation Day
May 5. This commemorates the coronation of King Bhumibol. In Pattaya, tribute is paid at shrines and by adorning portraits of His Majesty.
Visakha Bucha Day
Full Moon of the Sixth Lunar Month. End of May. This holiday celebrates the birth, death and enlightenment of Buddha and is the most sacred day in the Buddhist calendar. If you visit any of the wats in the area on the evening of this day, you may join in the candlelight procession: three clockwise trips around the main chapel to worship Buddha, his teachings and the monk community.
Asalaha Bucha Day
Full Moon, Eighth Lunar Month. Mid July. This is the day before the start of the Buddhist Lent. Young men who are about to become monks hold parties on this day.
Khao Pansa
First Waning Moon of the Eighth Lunar Month. Mid July. This is the start of the Buddhist lent period similar in some ways to the Christian Lent, celebrated the day after Asalaha Bucha Day. During the period of Khao Pansa, monks do not travel to other monasteries. Their religious duties are most strictly observed, and the novice monks receive their training in the teachings of Buddha. You may see an ordination ceremony buad nak taking place at any of the wats.
H.M. The Queen’s Birthday
August 12. Mother’s Day. The streets are lined with flags. Factories, shops and offices create displays paying tribute to her Majesty; donations are made to charitable organizations patronized by the Queen.
Chulalongkorn Day
October 23. This commemorates the death of King Chulalongkorn, Rama 5, who reigned between 1868 and 1910. He is renowned for his achievements in the fields of education, modernization and progressive thinking. Chulalongkorn University was a direct result of his programme of public education.
Loy Krathong
Full moon, 12th Lunar Month, November. Loy Krathong is thought to date back to the Sukhothai period, but its exact significance is uncertain. It is a thanksgiving to the water spirits, a cleansing of sins and a time when a wish may be made for the future. The Thais make, buy or spruce up their pretty traditional costumes, and loudspeakers in the shops blare out Loy Krathong songs. Krathongs are small floating vessels, traditionally made from natural materials such as banana leaves. They imitate the shape of a lotus and contain a candle, incense sticks, a coin or two and flowers. At midnight on Loy Krathong, Thais and Foreigners/Farangs alike go to the beach to light their candles and incense sticks and to launch the Krathongs into the sea. Don’t forget to make a wish! The celebrations on the streets in Pattaya can become overwhelming with fireworks going off everywhere, although recent limitations on these have been somewhat enforced. For a quieter celebration you may want to go to one of the hotels or to other places on the coast.
H.M. The King’s Birthday
December 5. Father’s Day. The day begins with a parade of the Army, Navy and Air Forces in Bangkok. People show respect with flags, displays and other tributes.
Constitution Day
December 10. Commemorates the beginning of democracy in 1932, when old Siam became a constitutional monarchy.
New Year’s Eve
December 31. In Pattaya, the hotels compete with each other to provide the best food and fun, often outdoors around the pool. Out of town, this is a rather quiet evening.
Nearby Festivals
Royal Ploughing Ceremony
This ceremony is held around the second week in May in Sanam Luang in Bangkok to open the rice-planting season and give blessing to the crops. Garlanded buffalos pull the decorated plough, while Brahman priests plant sacred rice seeds and predict the success of the coming harvest.
Fruit Fair
May and early June in Rayong, Chantaburi and Trat. This celebration includes cultural performances, parades, exhibitions and folk art as well as an abundance of fruits for sale from the famous orchards of these provinces, including durian, jackfruit, pomelo and rambutan.
Buffalo Races
October in Chonburi. A festival where buffaloes with jockeys balanced on their rumps thunder across the field. There are contests, pitting buffalo and man, and beauty contests for decorated buffalos.
Trooping of the Colours
December at the Royal Plaza in Bangkok. The elite Royal Guards swear allegiance to Their Majesties the King and Queen, and there is a colourful march past the Royalty with much pomp and ceremony. ♥